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Cake day: June 23rd, 2024

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  • Displays have to be driven in multiplex because you can’t just wire each of the 6 million subpixels (4 million for Samsung OLED cuz they alternate red/blue in a checkerboard) of a 1080p screen to a pin of a chip that has the screen RAM and powers subpixels continuously. Therefore, the chip will have row and column outputs, and use a technique called “multiplexing” that powers only one row at a time.

    It’s really about how the pixels respond to being driven. In TFT LCDs, driving a subpixel will charge its memory capacitor to a desired voltage, corresponding to the target brightness. Over the next few milliseconds, the subpixel will fade into that color as the nematic elements twist in response to voltage. Over about one second, the capacitor would lose its charge and the LCD would fade to its resting state (all-white for positive ones). You can see this if you suddenly kill power to the driving board while leaving the backlight on. So it needs to be recharged (redriven) in a few tens of milliseconds. Subpixels do get a little brighter between refreshes but that’s very subtle and not noticeable at 60 Hz unless it’s a passive matrix (STN without those capacitors, like a Game Boy screen) under flickery lighting.

    Meanwhile, OLED pixels are black while not currently being refreshed, so the difference in brightness just before and during refresh is not about +0.1 % but -100 %, just like with CRT phosphor. It relies on human eyes’ persistance of vision to create an illusion of a complete image. It varies from person to person, but anything below about 60 Hz gets uncomfortable after long periods, and below 40 Hz (especially around 10-20 Hz) can be seizure-inducing. But again, the magnitude of flicker matters as much as frequency.


  • TFT cells in LCD panels hold the image for pretty long between refreshes so there is little difference between 60 Hz and 120 Hz. Yes, 120 Hz will allow for 120 fps but that/s not really relevant for basic GUI.

    Meanwhile, a 60Hz OLED panel is as flickery as a CRT TV because the LEDs only glow when being refreshed.

    With a 30Hz LCD panel, you might notice the direction the refreshing goes across the screen, and there might be a little less contrast, some inconsistency between pixels, and a soft moving gradient if this interferes with the backlight frequency (since most backlight is DC now, this problem only really manifests with reflective LCDs under flickery mains lights).

    Meanwhile, a 30Hz OLED panel would be seizure-inducing and unwatchable.











  • The command (C:\Windows\System32\) OOBE\bypassnro (.cmd) one types into the command prompt (after opening it with Shift+F10) for the bypass is the location of a batch file they will be removing (the parenthesized parts are optional, implied by the command interpreter, and so is any capitalization). You can still do whatever it’s doing (adding a registry key and restarting) by typing the command manually or providing a copy of the file on a USB drive. After a restart, the OS will check for the registry key AND lack of internet connection to provide the local account option.

    For the record, the contents of the file are

    @echo off
    reg add HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\OOBE /v BypassNRO /t REG_DWORD /d 1 /f
    shutdown /r /t 0
    

    The first line is optional, and so is the third if you’re OK with restarting manually. If creating the file on Unix-based systems, make sure the newline sequence is CRLF (DOS/Windows standard).

    Obligatory shoutout to literally any Linux distro, which does not need this workaround, and is usually easier to install and set up than debloating a fresh Windows 11 install.